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Can a drop of perfume tell the story of the twentieth century? Can a smell bear the traces of history? What can we learn about the history of the twentieth century by examining the fate of perfumes?
In this remarkable book, Karl Schlö gel unravels the interconnected histories of two of the world's most celebrated perfumes. In tsarist Russia, two French perfumers - Ernest Beaux and Auguste Michel - developed related fragrances honouring Catherine the Great for the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty. During the Russian Revolution and Civil War, Beaux fled Russia and took the formula for his perfume with him to France, where he sought to adapt it to his new French circumstances. He presented Coco Chanel with a series of ten fragrance samples in his laboratory and, after smelling each, she chose number five - the scent that would later go by the name Chanel No. 5. Meanwhile, as the perfume industry was being revived in Soviet Russia, Auguste Michel used his original fragrance to create Red Moscow for the tenth anniversary of the Revolution. Piecing together the intertwined histories of these two famous perfumes, which shared a common origin, Schlö gel tells a surprising story of power, intrigue and betrayal that offers an altogether unique perspective on the turbulent events and high politics of the twentieth century.
This brilliant account of perfume and politics in twentieth-century Europe will be of interest to a wide general readership.
In this remarkable book, Karl Schlö gel unravels the interconnected histories of two of the world's most celebrated perfumes. In tsarist Russia, two French perfumers - Ernest Beaux and Auguste Michel - developed related fragrances honouring Catherine the Great for the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty. During the Russian Revolution and Civil War, Beaux fled Russia and took the formula for his perfume with him to France, where he sought to adapt it to his new French circumstances. He presented Coco Chanel with a series of ten fragrance samples in his laboratory and, after smelling each, she chose number five - the scent that would later go by the name Chanel No. 5. Meanwhile, as the perfume industry was being revived in Soviet Russia, Auguste Michel used his original fragrance to create Red Moscow for the tenth anniversary of the Revolution. Piecing together the intertwined histories of these two famous perfumes, which shared a common origin, Schlö gel tells a surprising story of power, intrigue and betrayal that offers an altogether unique perspective on the turbulent events and high politics of the twentieth century.
This brilliant account of perfume and politics in twentieth-century Europe will be of interest to a wide general readership.
Inhaltsverzeichnis
List of illustrations
1. Extracurricular activity
2. The scent of the empire, or how Le Bouquet de Catherine from 1913 led to Chanel No. 5 and the Soviet perfume Red Moscow after the Russian Revolution
3. Scentscapes. Proust's madeleine and historiography
4. When 'the weakest link breaks in the imperialist chain' (Lenin). The world of scents and the olfactory revolution
5. Departure from the belle é poque and clothes for the New Woman. Chanel's and Lamanova's double revolution
6. Chanel's Russian connection
7. French connection in Moscow? The 'fatherland of workers' and traces of Mikhail Bulgakov
8. Auguste Michel's incomplete project: a Palace of Soviets perfume
9. The seductive scent of power. Coco Chanel and Polina Zhemchuzhina Molotova. Two careers in the twentieth century
10. From another world. The smoke of the crematoria and the smell of Kolyma
11. After the war. Man cannot live on bread alone. The New Look and Stilyagi
12. Excursus: The grande dame of German film Olga Chekhova, cosmetics and the dream of eternal youth
13. How One World smells
14. Not only the Black Square: Malevich's perfume bottle
Notes
Bibliography
Index
1. Extracurricular activity
2. The scent of the empire, or how Le Bouquet de Catherine from 1913 led to Chanel No. 5 and the Soviet perfume Red Moscow after the Russian Revolution
3. Scentscapes. Proust's madeleine and historiography
4. When 'the weakest link breaks in the imperialist chain' (Lenin). The world of scents and the olfactory revolution
5. Departure from the belle é poque and clothes for the New Woman. Chanel's and Lamanova's double revolution
6. Chanel's Russian connection
7. French connection in Moscow? The 'fatherland of workers' and traces of Mikhail Bulgakov
8. Auguste Michel's incomplete project: a Palace of Soviets perfume
9. The seductive scent of power. Coco Chanel and Polina Zhemchuzhina Molotova. Two careers in the twentieth century
10. From another world. The smoke of the crematoria and the smell of Kolyma
11. After the war. Man cannot live on bread alone. The New Look and Stilyagi
12. Excursus: The grande dame of German film Olga Chekhova, cosmetics and the dream of eternal youth
13. How One World smells
14. Not only the Black Square: Malevich's perfume bottle
Notes
Bibliography
Index
Produktdetails
Erscheinungsdatum
01. Juni 2021
Sprache
englisch
Seitenanzahl
220
Autor/Autorin
Karl Schlögel
Übersetzung
Jessica Spengler
Verlag/Hersteller
Produktart
gebunden
Gewicht
406 g
Größe (L/B/H)
220/148/25 mm
ISBN
9781509546596
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Pressestimmen
Best Summer Books of 2021, Financial Times
"Tantalising"
Financial Times
"Engrossing"
Morning Star
"Superb... a splendidly pungent area for exploration"
The Spectator
"Schlögel is a master storyteller."
Frankfurter Rundschau
"A fascinating journey through scent."
Neue Zürcher Zeitung am Sonntag
"This book demonstrates once again Karl Schlögel's remarkable ability to make the whole of society visible in the most inconspicuous details."
Süddeutsche Zeitung
"Schlögel has captured the scent of the 'Age of Extremes'' - too much may give you a headache but a short burst is stimulating and intoxicating."
Deutschlandfunk Kultur
"No historian I know combines creativity in conception and fastidiousness of research like Karl Schlögel. This book is a surprise and an education. It is also a great pleasure to read."
Timothy Snyder, Yale University
"'A drop of perfume can hold the entire history of the twentieth century', writes Karl Schlögel - and so it does. In this elegant, enticing, slim book, Schlögel, one of the great historians of the Soviet experiment, shifts his gaze to the world of luxury scents. With grace and intent, he moves the reader between a convent orphanage in France and an impoverished shtetl in the Pale of Settlement, between Parisian salons and Politburo meetings at the Kremlin. Bolshevism, Nazism and Stalinism emerge as olfactory experiences, in which the fragrant and the putrid are not easily uncoupled."
Marci Shore, author of The Taste of Ashes: The Afterlife of Totalitarianism in Eastern Europe
"a tale of revolution, war and spies"
The Sydney Morning Herald
"a compelling story full of twists and tragedies... fascinating."
Bois De Jasmin
"A captivating historical account of the personal lives and political intrigue surrounding two perfumery legends."
Beauty Matter
"There is much to praise about The Scent of Empires, but above all Schlögel's ability to breathe new life into well-trodden avenues of historical study is particularly commendable."
The Russian Review
"Tantalising"
Financial Times
"Engrossing"
Morning Star
"Superb... a splendidly pungent area for exploration"
The Spectator
"Schlögel is a master storyteller."
Frankfurter Rundschau
"A fascinating journey through scent."
Neue Zürcher Zeitung am Sonntag
"This book demonstrates once again Karl Schlögel's remarkable ability to make the whole of society visible in the most inconspicuous details."
Süddeutsche Zeitung
"Schlögel has captured the scent of the 'Age of Extremes'' - too much may give you a headache but a short burst is stimulating and intoxicating."
Deutschlandfunk Kultur
"No historian I know combines creativity in conception and fastidiousness of research like Karl Schlögel. This book is a surprise and an education. It is also a great pleasure to read."
Timothy Snyder, Yale University
"'A drop of perfume can hold the entire history of the twentieth century', writes Karl Schlögel - and so it does. In this elegant, enticing, slim book, Schlögel, one of the great historians of the Soviet experiment, shifts his gaze to the world of luxury scents. With grace and intent, he moves the reader between a convent orphanage in France and an impoverished shtetl in the Pale of Settlement, between Parisian salons and Politburo meetings at the Kremlin. Bolshevism, Nazism and Stalinism emerge as olfactory experiences, in which the fragrant and the putrid are not easily uncoupled."
Marci Shore, author of The Taste of Ashes: The Afterlife of Totalitarianism in Eastern Europe
"a tale of revolution, war and spies"
The Sydney Morning Herald
"a compelling story full of twists and tragedies... fascinating."
Bois De Jasmin
"A captivating historical account of the personal lives and political intrigue surrounding two perfumery legends."
Beauty Matter
"There is much to praise about The Scent of Empires, but above all Schlögel's ability to breathe new life into well-trodden avenues of historical study is particularly commendable."
The Russian Review
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